Crossing from Ecuador to Peru via Zumba and La Balsa

Crossing from Ecuador to Peru via Zumba and La Balsa (south of Vilcabamba)? Well, I´ve just done it, let me share my knowledge!

From Vilcabamba your best bet is to catch the 0630 bus that goes to Zumba. This leaves from halfway between the plaza and the highway (roughly). It´s pretty easy to find, especially if you ask the day before.

From here you have quite a long ride until you get to Zumba. The best views are on the left hand side. There´s a couple of nice towns along the way, in fact they´re probably nicer than Vilcabamba since they´re not full of stinking hippies trying to sell you jewellery!

From Zumba the bus deposits you in a muddy bus park. There´s some little restaurants here. Wait around for a bit and a collectivo/ranchero (truck with seats in the back) will show up. The ride takes maybe 2 hours and is VERY uncomfortable. If you´ve got money to burn, take a taxi instead (4wd twin cab ute), more expensive but much more comfortable. The rancheros go all day not twice a day as listed in some guidebooks.

On the way to the border the police checked our documents, have your passport ready.

Once at the border, the immigration office is on your left, it´s extremely obvious. The official was helpful, quick and spoke no english at all. There´s a couple of places you can swap dollars for soles (rate was 2.8 soles per dollar, while the actual rate is more like 3.08 soles per dollar, so not too bad).

For here, you now walk across to Peru.

As you walk along the bridge, directly in front and very slightly to your left is a restaurant. Very slightly to your right are some government offices. The last door to the right is the one you want, it has a sign saying ¨Migraciones¨.

The first thing you need to do is get a swine flu form filled out by a doctor. If you are in luck she´ll be in the migration office, otherwise you´ll have to walk further down to your right and look for the post office.

If she is there proffer your passport and deny all knowledge of any flu like symptoms. Then give your passport to the migration guy. After he´s finished you have to see the police. Their office is to the left of the bridge (the left as you walked over it from Ecuador) and down a slope. Go round a corner where there is an office and a computer. Once the cops have looked at your paperwork and given you a stamp go back to the migration office where your passport will be stamped. You´re now free to go.

From here you need to escape.

Taxis will be parked next to the bridge. When negotiating, find out how many passengers will be travelling. For 5 to 6 passengers you will probably pay 10-12 soles per person to get to San Ignacio. If you´re paying more and they try and squash you in than jack up and refuse (that´s what I did!) It would be much more comfortable with less people. You could also hire a motor trike (tuk tuk) but they are slow, open and poorly suspended, not much of a ride.

From San Ignacio you can get a collectivo (mini van) to Jaen. We payed 10 soles each. They squeeze them in, so don´t expect too much comfort.

From Jaen normally you could then catch a bus to Chachapoyas.



Unfortunately, the road is currently blocked by local indigenous people unhappy about it´s existence (or something).

We took a taxi to Bellavista (6 soles each), a trike from Bellavista to the river (2 soles each), a boat across the river (2 soles each and very dodgy!) and then a taxi to Bagua Grande (6 soles each).

Normally there should be buses from Bagua Grande, but they were running taxis instead (set price of 22 soles to Chachapoyas). If you can negotiate at the river to get to Chachapoyas for less than 25 soles each I´d take that. Also, the suspension on a lot of these vehicles is shot and they´re VERY uncomfortable. Look around for a good one.

A friend told me (after meeting very coincidentally in Chachapoyas) that they simply walked through the blockade and then took a trike to Bagua Grande and then a taxi to Chachapoyas. That would be easier, although a similar price.


Also, but incidentally, I managed to miss the 0630 bus from Vilcabamba (I can´t work out how to make my alarm go on my watch) and so took the 1030 bus instead. This was fine except that the Peruvian immigration didn´t want anything to do with us and told us to come back in the morning (he was cock deep and rooting when we walked past his window). Luckily another official was more helpful and put us up in an official building with nice beds (used my sleeping bag) and cable TV! The only downside was the complete absence of toilet paper anywhere in the building :(

There is also a sign for a hostal in La Balsa, but no indications if it´s actually open.

If going back the other way the collectivos run from the border through to Zumba for most of the day, so you should have no worries finding one.

Hope someone finds this useful, I found it very hard to find info on the subject!

cheers

Harry

EDIT

As of 05 June, the police have moved in and broken up the blockade. Possibly shooting protestors. In response the protestors have been rioting through Bagua, destroying buildings and killing and kidnapping a number of police. As such, I would not recommend the Zumba crossing, as it´s necessary to get through Bagua Grande to use it. Also, any travel in the area is probably not recommended, as thousands of fired up Indians with spears and lots of angry cops with machine guns looking for retribution do not make a good combination for those in the middle!

Youth in Asia...

In the Australian today I read an article about Australians overseas and how irresponsible they are and how they depend upon consular services and complain heavily when they´re not given absolutely perfect assistance.

One quote:

The latest figures from the Department of Foreign Affairs show that 2009 is set to become the first year when more than 1000 Australians are arrested and when more than 1000 Australians are expected to die overseas.

and another:

...at how Australians were abusing consular services overseas, refusing to take responsibility for their own care, ignoring travel advice and complaining about embassy staff.

"Australian embassies are not travel agencies, nor is it their job to provide free travel insurance," he said, adding that a culture of complaint had developed where embassy staff were blamed and abused for "not helping" or being "too slow" during emergencies or where people had got themselves into trouble.

Speaking as an Australian currently overseas and engaging in dangerous activities and ¨adventure tourism¨ I think that this harks back to my old message. People need to be accountable for their own actions. More importantly, as a nation we need to look after ourselves, not expect the ¨nanny state¨ to sort out all our issues. This is another example of us becoming infantilised by a government that looks after us from the cradle to the grave.

As a tourist, I have travel insurance. More importantly, I have a strong realisation that the places I´m going, the Ecuadorian Government is not going to be able to provide search and rescure for.

Even back home, my friends and I have an attitude of ¨self rescue¨ wherever possible. If you´re in trouble you get out. If you can´t kayak out you walk out. If you can´t walk, you wait until you can. You don´t expect the chopper overhead and you don´t ask for it´s assistance unless it´s an emergency.

I personally don´t have a problem with someone who wants to walk through Colombia, or take a peyote tour of Mexico, or live in a slum in India with a guru or even row a boat across the pacific (not that you´d catch me doing ANY of those things).

But when the shit hits the fan, as it will, because it always does, take some responsibility. Try and get out of there yourself. And when a hard worked embassy official, who doesn´t really give a shit about you because you´re the 19th Australian this particular guru has buried in elephant shit, comes in and saves your arse, try being grateful, not narky because they didn´t find your bong at the bottom of the pile or he refused to fly you first class back to Sydney.

Get some travel insurance. Be polite, because that´s a good rule in life. TAKE PERSONAL ACCOUNTABILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS. Don´t attack people who help you. Try and payback the money expended on your behalf.

If everyone did that, would there really be any problem?

cheers

Harry

King of the Andes...

I am writing this from an internet cafe in downtown Quito, capitol of Ecuador (where broadband at a cafe averages 80c to $1 per hour). I got in last night after close to 30 hours of travelling (and nearly 23 hours in planes) from Sydney.

First impressions. The weather is really good, we´re up at altitude but it hasn´t effected me too much. It´s quite sunny but not too hot, especially considering we´re sitting on the equator. (Equator - Ecuador, not it´s not a coincidence).

The people are quite friendly, even though not a huge amount of them speak English. Bit of a mix ethnically, from light to dark, but lots and lots of indian heritage quite obvious and most people have dark hair and dark eyes.

Things are cheap, but not consistently so, I`ll have to be careful in Quito that I don´t spend too much money.

The area where I´m staying (the Mariscal) is very touristy and apparently has a very bad rep for crime and violence (according to the Lonely Planet). However, walking around last night there were private security guards and cops everywhere. I saw dozens in a couple of blocks. This morning there were some proper cops hanging around, armed with assault rifles and pump action shotguns! No messing around for those dudes obviously. From what I´ve been told it´s quite safe now, due to a massive crack down (obviously all those cops and security guards), so that´s a bit of a relief.

This is a proper city, with high rise buildings and the like, lots and lots of people in suits. People obviously take care in their appearance.

Anyway, going to the pub tonight to attend a quiz night and hang out with some other travellers. Hopefully onto Tena tomorrow and kayaking! Got a line on a couple of boats, so I´ll need to buy something soon.

Basically, Quito seems really nice, will definitely come back and do some touristing.

Cheers

Harry